Jarvo's Blog - "Truly Autumn"

	Sunday, December 04, 2005

"Truly Autumn"

Sunday 30/10/05
Have arrived at Maggie Valley in the hart of the Great Smoky Mountains where I shall stay for a few days, time to eat and sleep...

Monday 31/10/05
Well, I’ve just reviewed Sundays entry and although I did spend most of the day driving I shall drop it into the box marked “shouldn’t have bothered!” anyway moving on, have been chatting to the people who own this site, and in conversation it came up that they have been trying to find a local youth to spend a day or so helping out, a bit of strimming and general lifting type stuff around the place in preparation for the winter, as they are both getting on a bit, so I suggested that I did it (Ok I’m a little bit past the title of youth but I can still graft when I need to) and rather than pay me (something banned under the terms of my visa and a deportable offence) they offered to lend me a car for a couple of days, excellent! Bartering alive and well in North Carolina! Spent the rest of the day getting settled in.

Tuesday 1/11/05
A bit of strimming and general lifting type stuff!

Wednesday 2/11/05
A bit more strimming and general lifting type stuff!

Thursday 3/11/05
A bit of strim… Only joking! Decided to go up into the mountains for a couple of days and spend a night under the stars as the weather forecast is good and have also borrowed a little two man bivvy (that’s a tent) from the oldies. Hopefully won’t get eaten by bears.

Friday 4/11/05 (evening)
Now then, I’ve struggled a bit to think of how to put this down not ending up with the classic primary school essay on “what i did on my holiday” which goes; I went to the... and then I went to the…. and then I went to the…. And so on and so forth, so I have written a simple narrative which I hope covers it!

“THE DESCRIPTIVE BIT!”
Driving through mountain roads that climb and camber with edges that seem to drop away to infinity, then down to the valleys that twist and turn, bent to a rivers will, escarpments of hard granite forming overbearing faces of men who have lived many life times, where small deciduous plants cling as if for their very existence, the mountain sides covered with thousands upon thousands of trees their canopy’s bound together like broccoli tops in close order, with a hundred shades of green, gold and rust bursting forth announcing the onset of winter and the bright autumn sun setting them ablaze. Then, stopping to rest and setting a small camp fire, watching that bright autumnal sun set over a view not changed for so long to the symphony of crackling firewood sounding clear and clean in the stillness and peace of the evening, and laying back at darks fall, gazing up to black, diamond studded skies with the “whys?” and “what ifs” of a single mortal existence cast into mediocrity, as slumber, takes us.

Waking, to discover a world” newly born” thin smoke from the rekindled fire catches the nostrils and ground laid wet with dew dampens the feet, a walk to the stream, and, with a splash of icy mountain water to the face, time to begin another day...

Moving on up and up, ears popping, towards the mountains highest point with the last mile and a half taken on foot, the sides of this peak giving evidence of the twisters that form and dissipate during the high season with patches of forest laid to waste, trunks almost bear as telegraph poles with just the hint of their former glory in the guise of stubbled bows, then to the summit and pausing to view this magnificent sight, it is as if the whole world sat at your feet mile upon mile of forest clad peaks stretching away beyond human sight and comprehension.

Off again driving north to the Tuckaleechee Caverns once arrived being led down and down into the belly of the mountains and viewing with wonder these unreal structures beneath the earth, caves as big as two rugby pitches and half as high, glorious underground waterfalls and streams where the water is so clear and cool it is a crime not to stop and take a drink, oddly shaped crystal formations, that, in places appear to have been carved to represent a familiar face or well known object, these pointed out by our guide. Two hours later we emerge to another bright setting autumn sun and thoughts of heading back to camp a hot shower and steak fill the mind accompanied by the knowledge that sleep tonight will be sound and sure...

There hope that covered it

One thing I found a bit strange, was that part of the Smokies is a Cherokee Indian reservation, now over the past few years negotiations have taken place as to give native American Indian certain rights, which is only fair, anyway one of them is that no one is allowed to open or operate a casino or betting shop within a hundred mile radius of the reservation , now you might think this is due to the tribal elders attempting to keep their young people away from being corrupted, not so, in a crafty move they have secured the monopoly on gambling for a 200 sq mile radius and so your driving through this beautiful natural valley and as you turn a corner your confronted by a massive 15 story Casino/Hotel complex its completely surreal. Conversation on the subject uncovered that on average each tribal family receives upwards of $100 thousand dollars a year from this enterprise and other associated interests, betting on horse racing, American football etc but this has also meant that numbers amongst the tribe for alcoholism and other social problems have gone through the roof . Simple people need simple pleasures, and money rarely brings true contentment…

Saturday 5/11/05
As am heading out tomorrow decided to have a slobby day so spent from lunch time till late watching American football eating nachos on which I had placed hot chilli and grated chesse and not forgetting a side order of jalapeno’s washed down with ice cold beer! Hoora!

Sunday 6/11/05
Have set up in a wildlife preserve some 60 miles south of Nashville and talking to a ranger have discovered I’m the only one here in this 830 acre preserve of forests and lakes,

after a little thought have decided to stay for a week and just be totally alone and walk and think with the radio my only contact with the world, and plan food , oh “plan food” perhaps I should explain , as people we all have our little foibles and some might say I have a few more than most, anyway I have always taken much delight in food , its planning, its preparation and of equal importance its consumption , setting a table for friends and spending a few hours sitting around eating and drinking has to be one of the best things we do, but also for me, the planning as this is filled with glorious anticipation.
With regard to food I think the Romans would be pretty hard to beat they had feasts that lasted weeks and they enjoyed the pleasure of food so much that small pots of mild poison were always set along the centre of the banqueting table and (you’ll like this bit!) as they reached their fill they could consume one of these retire to the vomitairium “unload” then return to begin again just for the pleasure it gave the mouth!!! But vouchsafe I shall never head to the Bulimic side of town. So with a week of solitude ahead that planning, preparing and consuming thing will possibly be the highlight of the day, with regard to “what to eat” have discovered during my time so far that steak here is very cheap and very good, and in truth have had to stop myself from moving to a diet which exclusively contains steak and red wine (which is also cheap and carried by me in 5lte boxes) anyhow as my onboard freezer (very handy) also contains Catfish and pork chops as big as a side plate, I can create and experiment to my harts content.

Thursday 10/11/05 9pm
Well my little cherubs its been 5 days without site or sound of another human being, accept for the occasional wave from a passing ranger whilst out walking, consequently not much to report on things external, but had some interesting time with things internal, thoughts and feelings being given their proper time without the distraction of everyday life in all its facets, a poet, author and song smith named Shel Silverstien once supposed that our lives were like a pieces of rolling cheese with a segment missing and that for some the journey to find the missing segment was more rewarding than the completed cheese. Hmm… Does make you wonder.

Anyway as an aside the people I’ve talked to over the past few weeks have all frowned severely (especially Miranda’s Jeff) when I’ve mentioned picking up the “other” Jeff Mr alcoholic bank robber it would seem that the country is teeming with dodgy drifters and have been advised that this course of action should not be taken again. Well this just poses a whole new thing, I’ve always been a fairly trusting human being believing that everyone is entitled to the benefit of the doubt and infact if it was me trying to hitch a ride then I’d want someone to pick me up ! When mentioning this to one of the oldies he replied “yes but you wouldn’t stab somebody and rob them, would you?” I suppose that comes under the heading “fair point well made” So have decided to refrain, but I still think it’s a shame and a sad indictment of our world, still nothings perfect.

Sunday 13/11/05 4.30pm
On Friday night I was joined here by a few weekenders, one of whom was a local man Henry and his family, I probably forgot to mention that over the last couple of weeks the old girl has been a bit sick not firing on all cylinders (it’s a technical engine thing, apparently) this had been re-mentioned to me by the ranger I met last Sunday and I had decided that it would be good to get it sorted before breaking down “on the road” which would be bad, anyway Henry had been talking to the ranger who mentioned my sick van ,as Henry is a mechanic and has worked on RV’s he knocked at my door and introduced himself. So we removed the 3ft square panel between the drivers and passengers seat to reveal the engine and after 20 mins or so of starting, stopping and poking about we established the problem, some of the plug leads were not working, he asked when it was last tuned and I obviously said I didn’t know as I had bought the van “as seen” accept of course for the basic safety checks that revealed the LP problem(see post “Adventure begins”). He said he could sort it out but not until Wednesday as he was busy until then, so I’ve decided to stay until then, he was though very complimentary about my engine in general the Chevvy 454 is an upgrade and not the original engine which was good as this means the108k miles on the speedo is not accurate, for the engine at least and he said there was no better petrol engine on the market for this purpose and once he had fixed it and tuned it up I would really notice the difference.

On Saturday afternoon there was knock at my door and a lady named Sandra introduced herself and explained that she was my neighbour as her and her husband were one of those who had pulled in on Friday night, anyway they were expecting guests that night who about lunchtime had had to cancel, the upshot was that the large pot of chilli that she had made was now to big for them to handle and would I like some, my answer in the affirmative lead to the presentation of a lovely bowl of chilli! an hour or so later I dutifully returned the bowl all washed and clean and was invited into there 5th Wheel and met her husband Bob (they live in northern Mississippi and had travelled up for the weekend) , well we started to talk and they were delightful just good kind people who were as interested in me as I was them we exchanged views on politics, religion and many other topics and i got an opportunity to wow them with my ipod and itrip(see previous post “Adventure begins”) I stayed talking and drinking beer and a very healthy cup of scotch till late at night, it made a lovely change to my solitude, but subsequently their parting along with the other weekenders has left me here alone again tied to a need to be here by the van fixing, and am frankly a little low , with no signal on either mobile or internet and 30 miles from the nearest pay phone, but I know that in a few days I’ll be off again which is good. I have discovered, that, like all of us I suppose, I do need people even if their not my dear loved ones. Time spent with Bob and Sandra was one of the reasons I m travelling ,ok there the sightseeing the bars the aqueducts and all that, but for me meeting new people I just find so bloody interesting and I could spend many years just meeting and talking to people from different places and cultures I just find it really stimulating.(ok, gone on enough about that Mr Jarvis!) anyhow I have their address and have promised to pop in and see them in Mississippi sometime in January as I will be heading back across country about then. Its funny you know but now, right now, my spirits have been lifted just talking to you all, thank you very much x.

Wednesday 16/11/05
I’m still here with all my solitude and Henry is coming to fix my van this afternoon Hoora !! but let me tell you about last night so it was about 5.30pm and as previously mentioned I have only the radio as company, so all of a sudden this storm starts and when I say storm I mean proper, proper storm the likes of which I have never experienced with continuous claps of thunder that made the whole van shake and lightning that lit the sky as if it was daylight, anyway all of a sudden there’s this high pitched squeal on the radio that has an increased volume then this voice comes over the radio “This is the Doppler weather centre Nashville we have tornado warnings for the following areas Marshall county etc until 9.30pm, if you are in these areas go to you basement or if you do not have a basement lei on the floor and cover yourselves with mattresses and anything that will help protect you “So I thought SHIT!!” right get my map out and find those areas after a few minutes another warning giving other areas, now, at that point something kicked in and I don’t know why but I suddenly thought “I’m an Englishman and if I’m going to get screwed by a bloody tornado I’m gonna go down drinking!” and reached for a large bottle of red wine, anyway picture if you will me, 3 hours later the storm still raging, completely bollocksed trying to follow the course of these tornado’s. Sufi’s to say I survived with the only casualty, my head in the morning. But listening to the radio today there were 8 or so in all, all of which caused extensive damage to property and sadly two fatalities.

Sunday 20/11/05 10.30am
DISASTER STRIKES! so driving down the old interstate towards Texas when suddenly lots of banging and clattering and thick smoke streaming from the exhaust, well as you can imagine I was a little concerned so pulled over immediately. Right then what to do next, now on glancing at my mobiles one had no signal the other had just 7.5 units left on it ,so what to do as was several miles from nearest gas station etc. Did the old mental thing “do I leave it and start walking, but if I do what if someone comes?” so sent a text too Miranda who called me and I’ve given her my details also sent lynne Hearsey a text and e-mailed my details to her (as I know Sunday is a sacred “at home” day), unfortunately my call to Miranda used the last of my air time, so I thought, ok, ill just start the old generator sit tight and watch a bit of TV so sitting waiting for a reply to e-mail or some roadside assistance thought I just pop for a wee, came out of the toilette to find my TV smoking for all its worth!

Well that’s just great!

11.45am
Still no news, but a kindly soul stopped to see if I was ok sadly not in possession of a mobile but he did offer to call someone for me at the next exit (about 8 miles) so gave him $10 and Mirandas number and hopefully he’ll let her know more precise location as I was rushed before my last few seconds of time ran out, thought about having a look myself but then remembered my stupidity in all things mechanical, and I recalled a time about 20years or more ago ,I had bought an old brown Avenger from Kelivin Gardener (an old rugby club member) and had just picked up my lady of the time Diana Hayes from stonegate station, June, the mother figure had come along for the ride, anyway about 1½ miles into the return journey smoke started pouring from the bonnet, so I popped the hood, got out, opened the bonnet and peered in, as I looked back in the car June and Di were creased up laughing, when I irritatedly asked what was so bloody funny they simply replied through their laughter that I hadn’t a clue what I was looking at despite all my manly posturing! Well I guess another time for “fair point, well made” and brought a smile to my face also.

1.45pm
Spotted a few figures working on a partly constructed industrial unit across the interstate and simultaneously remembered my $10 energancy any provider top up card, so with no further ado and dodging motorway traffic, skipped across the 6 lanes, over the fence, across the field and hailed them, Oh great 8 mexicans digging a ditch! Well after a few minutes of pointing speaking loudly (always a surefire move when devided by two different lauguges!) and a lot of shirrard type stuff finaly got to borrow a mobile phone (which I offered to pay for but a smile and a “no worries” in pegion English made me smile graciously and thank with sincerity) made the call to the insurerers and am now waiting for… Hold on a godam minute the biggest f_ck off tow truck has just pulled up on the hard shoulder… gotta go!

5.45 pm
well, what can I say, got towed to a local repair centre who are approved by the insurance company, the good news is that the roadside recovery is covered by the insurance, the bad news, yes the very bad news is that I have a broken crank shaft which will require a NEW ENGINE! Hoora!!!

They will ring me tomorrow but a ball park figure was, now wait for it, between $5500-$7500 dollars!!!! This is obviously not covered and will completely wipe out my emergency fund (the money I planned to go wild on in Vegas) this coupled with the obvious 8 nights in a budget hotel (from where this is written), eating out, transportation etc, now the thing is it’s a shame, sure.. but theres no point in getting down or frustrated you have to be ok about it, for a start I can count my blessings that I had an emergency fund and also I’ve always thought theres no point in getting down etc about something you have no control over, weather it’s a traffic jam or problems at work or whatever because all you can do is give your whole self to a problem, work through it calmly and once you’ve done that, that’s it, theres no more you can do. I was once told a little saying that I have never forgotten “It doesn’t matter whether you’re an optimist or a pessimist the outcome is all ways the same but the optimist has the better journey” my only slight sadness is that I shall not be in Houston for the thanksgiving which is obviously huge here and promised much fun. Well will finish now and find a burger king or the like. Bye.

Monday 21/11/05
THE WAITING BEGINS
Woke up in the old motel quick wash and brush-up and across the parking lot to Sonic for a sausage and egg thing and coffee, looking through the telephone book found company that offers car hire for $10 a day plus $0.10c a mile so I think I’ll give them a call and think about what to do, still waiting for the repair people to ring with price and how quickly a new engine can be sourced.

Wednesday 23/11/05
Spoke to the garage who has ordered my engine which will hopefully arrive tomorrow, with a projected completion of sat/sun. Picked up a visitors map of the town only to discover that there’s not really anything much here, as an example listed under “attractions” are The Town Hall, The Central Post Office, Bi-State Justice Building etc etc. However one thing is the towns strange geographical position as the centre is smack bang in the middle of the state boundary between Texas and Arkansas hence the name Texarkana this gives rise to a few oditties but the most apparent is the alcohol rules, so your driving down State Line Avenue if you pull into a supermarket on the right hand side there is no booze for sale but if you pull in on the left you can get as much as you like!

Anyway as I shall be here for thanksgiving have decided to had a Christmas dinner dry run by attempting to create a lunch of proper quality using the microwave, obviously when I’m back in the van I’ll have the cooker at my disposal also, so off to Wall-mart for some premium micro beef, pre-mashed pots, peas, carrots the old favourite Mr Broccoli and instant gravy granules with an astounding cherry pie and cream for pud! and of course a nice bottle of new world Shiraz, apart from that not much to report so ill probably fill you in on my triumph or disaster on Friday.

Friday 25/11/05
Well what news? Lunch was a roaring triumph, flavoursome and oh so wholesome with horseradish and English mustard, the engine however is not due until Monday what with Thanksgiving and all, so hopefully will be out of here Weds, today is called black Friday which is the biggest shopping day in the country with some stores opening for sales at 5.00am. I have e-mailed some of Julian’s fiends in Vegas and received a delightful reply which has increased my anticipation of good times ahead. Done a couple of bars with not loads of success, you see people seem to be very friendly but if you don’t have an “in” mutual friend or interest they are happy to say “hello” and spend a few minutes but that’s really about it, I discussed this with Bupster who’s feelings on the subject are pretty much the same, we did however conclude that the general response in England may be the same, and I must say the people I’ve spent time with I have had something in common, namely travelling in the van.

Sunday 4/12/05
Well what can I say, still bloody here and its been two weeks, done the whole talking to garage thing everyday and have been promised that I’ll have it tomorrow which is not a moment to soon.

Have decided to post this now as in review the last 4 weeks or so have been rather dull and want to start the next with something good as I’m heading to San Antonio for a look around the Alamo and some cowboying.

Time for another little verse, this by Peter Falks who describes the onset of winter and has one of my favourite opening lines:

“WINTERS COMING”
When autumn fell without a cry
And swift and swallow had to fly
When cow was locked behind closed gate
And tortoise chose to hibernate
When bright Jack Frost came to stay
And things got darker every day
When woollen mits appear in shops
And on the mouth those cold sore spots
When wellies in the garden shed
Are lifted from their summer bed
And pipes are lagged and doors shut tight
To shield us from the cold winds bite
And for the first time collars raised
That once laid flat midst summer haze
When balls of snow and sledge appear
Within the minds of children dear
And stocks of wood are piled up high
For fired nights when lovers sigh
Then house proud Jone’s have a fit
And rush to buy a bag of grit
The smell of egg and bacon fried
Makes you want to stay inside
You can be sure and have no fear
That winter time is almost here…

12/4/2005 6:15:22 PM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)

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